It’s been a year since P and I moved to Paris, and our impending return just turned inevitable when P’s replacement V and his wife G arrived in the City of Lights, rented their apartment, signed onto a Bouygues contract and V started his language immersion course at the école. They happen to be our neighbors too having rented a place not 10 minutes away from chez nous. To welcome them to the neighborhood, we invited them to dinner at Jadis.
Jadis, despite its remote location on the edge of residential 15th, is one of the better known restaurants in the arrondissement, having garnered critical praise for the talented young chef’s thoughtful and delicious food since opening 6 years ago. Though the raves have cooled off with the years, Jadis remains justly popular with its local clientele and some intrepid tourists who do the trek and are rewarded by the impeccable cooking.
Regretfully I was nursing a cold that robbed me of my ability to taste, forcing me to be content with waiting for my lone plat while the others ate their entrées. V’s face had bliss written all over it as he polished off 2 fat slices of pan-fried foie gras, pink and oozing with delicious fats that amped up the sweetish squash puree.
Both my husband and G selected the Pascaline de St Jacques off the 36E 3 course menu and were quite happy with the dish, naturally sweetened by the delicate scallop meat and the nutty, roasted flavors of chestnut. Compared to the oyster tartare at Le Pantruche, the spinach creme here was also more successful than the timid cress purée at the former restaurant, vegetal and slightly bitter without being overly creamy.
Both fish and meat are well represented on the main courses. P predictably went straight for the roasted lamb served with bitter chard and a dish of salsify, extremely rosy and tender, the gamy flavors of the young lamb almost imperceptible.
V’s bass was very fresh and correctly cooked, but it was the roasted cauliflower and seafood bisque that accompanied the fish which shone. The sauces we tasted were all superb with the seafood bisque being the best, deeply flavored with shellfish and very savory. The slow-roasted cauliflower added a mellow and nutty component, a direct contrast to the extra burst of umami from the heap of caviar that rested on top of the vegetable.
If I had to pick a dish that was least successful, it would have been my daurade. The thin medallions of fish, though flash-fried was still a tad too tough for my liking, and the sea-urchin custard tended towards oversalted. Though similar to the seafood bisque, it lacked the intensity and complexity of flavors of the latter.
Desserts were relatively simple but good, the Paris Brest in eclair form was delicious, both the light choux pastry and the dense hazelnut cream in between the shell.
And the mystère de Jadis turned out less of a puzzle but a double ice-cream log coated with nuts and popped rice. Straight-forward and satisfying flavors of chocolate, nuts, caramel and vanilla is exactly what I want for my desserts. And Jadis is what I look out for in a restaurant too, unpretentious, welcoming, creative and 100% focused on what’s on the plate.
Address: 208 Rue de la Croix Nivert, 75015, Paris