We had not planned to eat lunch at the Fellow, a gastropub near St Pancras train station, on the afternoon we were returning to Paris via the Eurostar. We had in fact made reservations a month ago at a trendy restaurant, but had decided to sacrifice the hard-to-get table for an extra hour at the fascinating British Museum. A quick search on the internet offered up Fellow as the next best convenient alternative, so we bit the bullet and invited cousin C along for one last meal before we headed home.
For many travelers, the distance from the restaurant to the train station is The Fellow’s biggest selling point. The menu, while diminutive, is not short of interesting options. The food too was uniformly good, simply but well-seasoned.
Take a side of duck hearts, blistering hot with a slight char, they were salty, garlicky, savory , slightly gamy and extremely more-ish.
Parsnip and apple is a combination I’ve never had, although apparently the duo is a classic English pair. In the thick puree-d soup, I tasted both the distinctive herbal taste of parsnip as well as the natural sweetness of the apple. Complex and flavorful, but the peculiar flavor of parsnip may not be to everyone’s taste. The nutty and soft bread accompanying the soup however was an unqualified success.
The mains were hearty portions of protein, unfussily but perfectly cooked, accompanied by generous portions of sides. The medium steak was especially juicy and flavorful.
The food came a little quicker than we expected, so we relaxed for a few extra minutes in the comfortable room before making our way to the train. Though called the Fellow, the decor in this gastropub is less blokish and more stylishly decorated than we had expected. A good address in any case, even more so in this area of London lacking in serious eating options.
Address: 24 York Way, London, N1 9AA