La Femme Mange Mange authentic Indonesian cooking in Paris

Can you keep a secret?

You sure?

Ok here goes… 49 Rue Cortambert

Afraid you can’t pick out the address amongst its neighbors in residential 16eme? No worries. The red and white flag at the gate should be a good indication that you’ve arrived at the right place. What place? L’Ambassade d’Indonesie, or the Indonesian Embassy.

Do not be alarmed by the guard post. Sure, you may bring along photo identification to secure your entry, but the few times I’ve visited, we were waved through with an incantation of the magic words “saya mau makan”, meaning “I want to eat” in Bahasa Melayu.

Selamat Datang

One steps into a courtyard upon gaining entry into the embassy, a neat little space where one can seat amidst greenery and Javanese stone sculptures. At the end of the courtyard is the “Kedai Kopi” or coffee-shop, where one will find within its threadbare, slightly rundown interior, walls of Indonesian food supplies (keropok crackers, spicy sambal, Indomie etc) as well as stacks of boxed meals at lunchtime. The establishment is run by an Indonesian Ibu with impeccable hair, she who presides over all the comings and goings in her grocery store-canteen seated behind the counter, rarely leaving her seat.

Choices

These boxed lunches are prepared by Indonesian ladies who live in the city, and the roster changes on a regular basis so that their most faithful clients – the employees of the embassy – get an authentic taste of the archipelago. Extra packs are made for those in the know: homesick Indonesians, other South-east Asians hunting for spicy food in Paris, local French fortunate enough to chance upon this find.

Nasi campur

The plastic lunch boxes look flimsy and the contents are simple, but at 6e a pop, they pack a wallop of spice and variety. On any given day, there may be Indonesian staples such as mie bakso, nasi goreng, spicy deep fried chicken. Once in a while, the boxes contain fat pockets of fried tofu stuffed with vegetables and drenched in a sweet, sour sauce, or the flavorful beef rendang, its aromatic chili and coconut sauce sauce so well absorbed into the meat the stew is almost dry at the end of the cooking process. Even for those well-versed in South-east Asian cuisine, the Pempek Palembang might come as a surprise, a deep fried fish quenelle stuffed with an entire hard-boiled egg hard-boiled egg eaten with a rich vinegar sauce. An Indonesian friend was so happy to find Pempek in Paris that she promptly took 3 boxes home while getting the contact number of the coordinator so she could pre-order the food the next time she visited.

Al fresco option

The embassy’s courtyard is the other reason to visit, especially on warm, sunny days when one can finally move out of the depressing looking canteen and dine al fresco. If you are planning to visit Indonesia, this place will provide a primer on traditional local cuisine, serving better food than at the handful of Indonesian restaurants in the city. But even if a vacation is not in the cards, this is still one way to experience a little of what Indonesia has to offer.

L’Ambassade d’Indonesie (lunch only, cash only)

Address: 49 Rue Cortambert 75116, Paris, France

Posted in 16th arrondisement, Asian, Cuisine, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Paris | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Tips to a cheap(er) Paris visit

If there’s one thing my stint as a non-income producing housewife/student in Paris has taught me, it is how to stretch a penny while still enjoying the finer things in life. That was a timely skill to learn, since I was not content to waste my limited hours in Paris shuttling between home, school and Franprix, but at the same time did not wish to bankrupt the husband who was busy toiling away in school.

Napoleon welcomes you to the Place Vendome

For our visitors, Paris is associated with high hotel rates, costly museum visits, hefty restaurant bills and dreaded credit card charges that accompany coveted bags. While they (and we) are not bargain bin hunters and love a taste of la belle vie, some cost-cutting measures are always welcome.

Staying in Paris

Chief of all concerns for short-stay tourists is lodging. When you only have 3-4 days (the average length of stay clocked by our visitors) in the city, you’d naturally want to be close to major monuments and shopping sites. With museums, department stores and 2 hour lunches on your schedule, there is no time to waste. Most tourists we know tended to locate themselves in the 7th and 8th arrondissements, their respective cultural markers being the Eiffel Tower and Avenue Champs Elysées. Sure, these areas are safe and convenient, but as all students of economics know, robust demand and limited supply lead to higher prices. Also, these areas are typically very touristy, lacking in cultural and local flavor, not too mention great food.

For better hotel values, we suggest the arrondissements adjacent to the 7th and 8th, namely the 1st, 2nd and certain parts of the 15th. We lived in the 15eme and had lovingly christened it the “Toa Payoh” of Paris, both for its proximity to the centre of town and also the laidback residential feel. The area surrounding metro stations Cambronne, La Motte-Piquet, Dupleix and Bir-Hakeim are particularly convenient for visitors.

For those looking to be literally in the centre of Paris, i.e. on L’ile de la Cité, a friend tipped us to this unconventional hotel: L’Hotel Hospitel Paris. You cannot get closer to the Cathedral Notre Dame and based on tripadvisor reviews, it is low-frills but cozy and cheap. The quirk? The 14 room hotel is located inside the hospital Hotel-Dieu, the oldest city hospital in Paris. 

Some people are wedded to the convenience the full-service hotels provide. For those more amenable to alternative lodging arrangements, apartments may be the answer. While not necessarily cheaper, apartments are great for larger parties, especially those with older or younger folks who appreciate the flexibility to stay in for dinner once in a while. My parents still rave about the cute Marais studio where they stayed in 2008, complete with a little courtyard where my dad could practice his Tai Chi in the mornings. Typically, apartment rentals are reserved for those staying a week or longer, but sites like airbnb cater to short-stay visitors. A friend of ours booked a 2 bedroom apartment in Montmartre charmingly decorated by the photographer owner for her family through the website, paying no more than what she might have needed to fork up for 1 room in a 3 star hotel.

Getting around Paris

Why we walk – Pont Alexander III’s statue and a strange eye mask

To me, walking is the best way to get to know Paris. With so many shops and cafes lining Parisian boulevards, walking is not a dull exercise merely to get from point A to B, and the cool dry weather makes promenading an enjoyable task. And since it’s also free, according to the law of compensatory expenses, you can then funnel the transportation savings into a cup of coffee, an eclair, or, if you’ve really walked a ton, a gorgeous scarf Parisians will approve.

Paris Vélib

Biking is an option in Paris thanks to the Velib system. With 20,000 bikes parked in hundreds of stations dotting the city, the gungho and road confident can traverse Paris for as low as 1.70e a day. Journeys under 30 minutes are free of charge, so the key to minimizing cost is to switch bikes when you approach the 30 minute mark.

Last but not least, the public transport system within metropolitan Paris is convenient and cost-efficient. With 16 lines criss-crossing the city, a metro station is always within walking distance, and some of them ain’t too bad looking too. But I prefer taking the more civilizing ride on a bus or tram particularly when it gets infernally stuffy in the non air-conditioned metro cars. Certain bus routes are especially scenic, such as #80 (Eiffel Tower, Ecole Militaire, Seine river, Avenue Montaigne, Champs Elysées, Montmartre) and #72 (along the Seine’s right bank, from Hotel de Ville to Trocadero). Avoid peak hour bus travel because Parisian traffic can be rather terrible then.

The same type of ticket can be used on metro, buses, trams and RER trains within metropolitan Paris. The Paris Visite (9.75e) and Mobilis (6.40e) day passes are good options for those who’d like to minimize walking. Both types of tickets offer the same range of mobility, though the Paris Visite ticket includes certain discounts. If not, a carnet of normal tickets (12.70e for 10 tickets) is a better deal compared to purchasing single tickets (1.70e). Tip: Ask for a correspondence ticket when you board a bus or tram to get a free bus/tram transfer within 1.5hr of your initial ride.

Seeing the sights 

In Paris, the most famous monuments are but of course ticketed, so there really isn’t any way of getting out of the entrance fee to see Mona Lisa at the Louvre or walk through the gardens of Chateau Versailles. Except if you are visiting on the first Sunday of the month, when a large number of museums in the city and within Ile de France are open to public, FOC. The lines can be very daunting at the Louvre and perhaps Musée D’Orsay, but it was a breeze entering all the other museums we’ve visited on those Sundays.

All the Musées de la Ville de Paris also have permanent collections freely open to public all year round, my favorites being Musée Carnavalet, the Paris history museum, as well as Maison Victor Hugo, the author’s former residence preserved in 19th century bourgeois decor.

Gargoyle’s view of Paris

Most first-time visitors aim to scale the Eiffel Tower for a panoramic view of the city. Me? I’m happier eschewing the monstrous lines, and prefer checking out the art-deco detail from the base, or watching the tower blink on the hour from afar. But if I had to choose my favorite free spots with great views, I’d go for the phenomenal panorama (free and without crowds!) at Parc de Belleville, as well as the intimate perspective of the right bank from the rooftop terrace of Galleries Lafayette department store. But lest one writes me off as a cheapo, I’d gladly pay to be at eye level with Notre Dame’s gargoyles.

Eating in Paris

One way to save: le formule

Loving food, the total restaurant bill for our time in Paris were only second to rent when it came to household expenses. And no we did not dine like kings every single day. In fact, we cooked most days and the husband’s de facto lunch at the canteen was a 1.67e plate of steak haché (aka burger patty) and boiled vegetables. When we did eat out, we looked for restaurants that promised high price-quality ratios, or offered attractive menus (les formules in French). While most were rustic looking bistros situated far outside of the high-rent areas, some even delivered the “chic”.

Anticipating a good meal

The best deals are found during lunchtime. Starting at 37e, the pre-fixe lunch formule at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Etoile is hands-down the most economical Michelin starred lunch in Paris. Twice we’ve eaten there and twice we were treated to creative and delicious modern French cooking realized by Robuchon’s acolytes.

Good beginnings at L’Affriole

35e seems to be the minimum needed to have dinner at a decent restaurant in Paris, so says the Michelin guide, which designates a Bib Gourmand status to excellent restaurants serving under 35e 3 course meals. Out of 76 restaurants in the class of 2012, we’ve been to around 15, of which L’Affriole stood out for it’s excellent service, top notch cooking and an modern, elegant setting whereby one is not bumping elbows with the folks at the next table. Loved, loved, loved the radish mise-en-bouche, a simple yet vibrant touch both to the decor and to the palate.

Square du Vert-Galant

Picnicking was one of our favorite ways to spend warm, sunny afternoons with friends or just as couple, and we highly recommend it to visitors to engage in this veritable Parisian pastime. A gourmet spread is easily assembled simply by visiting either 1) an outdoor food market (where the scent of roasted chickens prompts immediate distress signals to one’s stomach), 2) a chi-chi food hall, the likes of Le Bon Marché’s Grand Epicerie or Lenotre, or 3) even a supermarket (I am partial to Monoprix, whose gourmet house-brand products, like their cheeses and charcuteries are very very decent). There’s virtually hundreds of suitable locations to faire le pique nique, be it Marie Antoinette style on the Grand Lawn of Chateau Versailles or a romantic soirée on the kitschiest icon of unbreakable love, the lock-festooned Pont des Arts. As for me, I would spend my next Parisian picnic at dusk on the tip of Ile de la Cité in Square du Vert-Galant, with some sausages and champagne, the Seine and P for company.

Finally, we have to credit the restaurant reservations website La Fourchette (aka The Fork) for helping us save some while still eating out. Many restaurants on the website seek to drum up business by offering discounts and special-priced menus on the website. While the bulk of these restaurants are not of the critically acclaimed and heavily publicized genre, and some may indeed by lemons (we’ve once gone to a Moroccan restaurant, to find out the kitchen stove was out of order and the only things we could order were microwaved couscous. We walked out immediately.), there are gems among the chaff, such as 50% off the ala carte menu at Michelin starred L’Ambassadeur restaurant in the very swish Hotel Crillon. Mind you, it’ll still be very expensive, but hopefully not ruinously so.

Paris in the fall -crisp cool air and clear skies; roads cleared of summer vacationers; new, cool restaurant introductions after la rentrée – is Paris at its best. And with a few tips to save some cash, your dream vacation in Paris may not be just a fantasy anymore.

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La Femme Mange a final bistro meal au Comptoir de l’Arc

If you had one meal left in Paris after 15 dreamlike months in the city of light, where would you go? If I had been better at planning, I might have booked that blowout gastronomic event at a Michelin starred temple, or packed a basket full with bloomy cheeses, crusty baguettes and a bottle of champagne for a lover’s picnic by the Seine. But the fact was, I had not planned for a final culinary hurrah but instead anticipated a worst case scenario that involved eating takeout pizza while fretting about what to do with all those odds and ends that do not fit into the suitcases. Thankfully, with the help of a dear friend who volunteered to take and distribute all our stuff, we finished packing way ahead of schedule and found ourselves with a free Friday evening to do some last minute wandering and enjoy dinner.

Apero hour

Enter Comptoir de L’Arc, a casual bistro on Avenue Marceau, one of the grand avenues that radiate out of the crazy Arc de Triomphe roundabout. For a location so near Champs Elysées, the clientele is decidedly local, most of them trendy young Parisians that populate the offices nearby. The vibe is buzzy and typically French, smokers and blasé service included. On that warm, light-filled summer night, we eschewed the darkly lit room and seated ourselves in the crowded terrace, in an attempt to absorb as much of that of-so-French café culture as we could.

Bistro classic #1: Steak Tartare

One reason this bistro is popular amongst young professionals is its economical menu. The salads, sandwiches and classic bistro dishes were freshly made, copious in portions and moderate in costs. At 10e-15e per main dish, the prices were more akin to those at my neighborhood 15eme cafés than places in the 8eme.

Bistro classic #2: Duck confit

Actually the food also reminded me of those at Le Roi du Cafe, our go-to joint in the 15eme. The steak tartare, while not made with the freshest hand-chopped beef was admirably seasoned, loaded with capers, parsley and onion to give it the tangy, spicy, refreshing kick that I love about steak tartare. P was glad to have one last chance at his favorite French dish, duck confit, and the version here was decent, the meat not too dry under a golden, though slightly greasy skin. The food was nothing distinguished, but at 12e per dish, we had no complaints.

Comptoir de L’Arc is a bistro that I have never heard of before our meal, and on more typical days, where each meal is obsessed over and each dinner reservation meticulously considered, we might have never eaten there. But as our last day in Paris – a day that started out in a frenzy but slowed down to a lovely evening of long strolls and our favorite dishes – showed me, sometimes we just got to leave things to chance.

Le Comptoir de L’Arc

Address: 73 Avenue Marceau, 75008, Paris France

Posted in 8th arrondisement, Cuisine, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Paris, Traditional French | Tagged , | Leave a comment

La Femme Mange duck at Domaine de Lintillac

I don’t believe I’ve eaten as much duck as I’ve have while living in Paris. Don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of duck specialists in Singapore and a lot of opportunities to eat the quacking fowl. It’s just that while I’ve never been too fond of the oily flavor and dry texture of the meat, I’m rendered helpless in front of a thick, creamy slab of duck foie gras. Eating foie gras can be very taxing on the body and the wallet, so it’s fortunate to have friends steer us to Domaine de Lintillac, where we can at least guard our pockets while our cholesterol levels spike.

Foie gras de canard marinated in Sauternes, aspic jelly

Domaine de Lintillac is a mini-chain of traditional restaurants serving duck, duck and more duck. The products are sourced directly from farms in the small Corrèzien village of Lintillac, allowing the restaurant to serve quality food while keeping costs relatively low. Here, the foie gras, either served in cold blocks or warm, just-seared slabs cost 12e-18e, substantially lower than prices at well-regarded restaurants but of better quality than those served at your run-of-the-mill bistros.

Magret de canard

After the foie gras one proceeds to equally ducky mains (priced between 10e-16e), be it a rosy piece of roasted breast, or a generous leg of duck confit hiding under a layer of crackling skin. The meat is simply seasoned and cooked, served with rustic sides of salad greens and maddeningly fragrant roasted potatoes.

Le cassoulet

For those like me who do not enjoy the unadulterated flavor of duck, one can choose a variant of the meat as plat. The cassoulet with beans, duck and sausage was rich and hearty, the  white beans well-cooked in duck fats and meat juices, but of a small enough size for one to finish without falling into a food coma afterwards.

Boudin Noir

On our last visit to the 7eme branch, I tried the boudin noir made with duck’s blood and a filling of chestnut, the sweet, nutty flavors working harmoniously with the caramel flavor of the sauteed apples.

Creme Brulée

Even the non-duck desserts were pretty good and P was most satisfied with his ramekin of creme brulée, a fine specimen that was neither too soft nor too hard, with a strong perfume of vanilla and a thin, blackened crust of burnt sugar.

The Domaine de Lintillac restaurants, complete with heavy wood finishings and checked table cloths, feels more like rustic country inns than restaurants set on the crowded streets of urbane Paris. The hospitality, like the prices also harks back to older, simpler times, with a warm welcome and service that is courteous and never rushed. And the best part about the restaurant? You can bring a piece of it home, in tins of foie gras or duck confit, to be eaten whenever the duck craving strikes!

Domaine de Lintillac

Address: 20 Rue Rousselet, 75007, Paris, France

Website: http://www.restaurant-lintillac.com/index.html

Posted in 7th arrondisement, Cuisine, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Paris, Traditional French | Tagged , | Leave a comment

La Femme Mange Crepes in Paris

Our final weeks in Paris were a blitz of activity: packing, exams, graduation ceremonies, logistics and of course eating all those things we’d miss once back in Singapore. I love crepes and their savory siblings, the galette, so I made it a point to have crepes not once but twice before flying home.

Lunchtime at Creperie Josselin

I revisited Creperie Josselin with the husband. The small, quaintly decorated creperie is the busiest on this stretch of Montparnasse (and some contend the best creperie in Paris), and our favorite where we return faithfully to each time the crepe craving strikes.

Cider in a bol

We tend to frequent Creperie Josselin during the afternoon to take advantage of the lunchtime formule: a 10e deal that includes the galette complete (stuffed with cheese, egg and ham), a sweet crepe, washed down with a pitcher of Brittany’s cider.

Galette complete

Their galettes are nothing fancy, just nut-brown buckwheat pancakes filled with simple fillings. But they come in my preferred texture, thin and crispy with crunchy lacy edges and are ultra filling despite the diminutive size.

Lemon-Honey Crepe

Crepes to me is comfort food, homely but satisfying. More often than not, I find the simplest variations the best. Thus the default crepe fillings for us are usually a smear of nutella or a drizzle of honey and lemon juice. So far, these choices have not failed us yet at Creperie Josselin.

It’s calm and cool at La Compagnie de Bretagne

If Creperie Josselin is a homely aunt, La Compagnie de Bretagne, a new creperie/restaurant is its urbane, sophisticated younger sister. Upon entering the spacious, tastefully decorated triple-storied restaurant for my date with J, my perception of creperies as casual, no-frills establishments were immediately challenged. While the husband and I were packed cheek-to-jowl at Josselin, J and I were seated in a comfortable black and white 2-top on the rez-de-chausée with a view of the glass-enclosed kitchen and much more space between us and our neighbors than I’m accustomed to in Paris.

Asparagus and poached egg galette

The menu is also more sophisticated than the regular creperie offerings, not surprisingly given that the restaurant has famous Breton chef Olivier Roellinger as its consultant. Products are seasonal and sourced from Brittany, so alongside regular creperie offerings like the galette complete and the crepe au caramel beurre salé, one also finds galettes filled with flavorful seasonal asparagus, oysters from Cancale and meaty Brittany lobster. Even the galettes and crepes are folded with more care, first halved then folded asymmetrically to reveal a glimpse of the stuffing. Taste-wise, the white and green asparagus on my galette was delicious, though I prefer the crispier texture of Creperie Josselin’s galettes.

Grilled Brittany lobster

J thoroughly enjoyed the grilled lobster – sweet and firm meat accentuated by rich Breton butter – that the kitchen had kindly halved for her even when the menu stated it was a dish for two. I guess her baby in the belly technically counts as another person.

Crepe à la crème de pralin

The dessert crepe offerings presented several intriguing options. No Nutella on this menu, though the crepe with praline cream and candied nuts was a worthy substitute.

La Compagnie de Bretagne is definitely more expensive, with the à la carte menu priced at least 30% higher than Creperie Josselin. In return, one gets luxe ingredients, better service and more room. 2 creperies to suit different occasions, both of which I will miss.

Creperie Josselin: 67 Rue du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris, France

La Compagnie de Bretagne: 9 Rue de l’École de Médecine, 75006 Paris, France

Website: http://www.compagnie-de-bretagne.com/

Posted in 14th arrondisement, 6th arrondisement, Crepes, Cuisine, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Paris | Tagged , | Leave a comment

La Femme Mange Parisian specialities at Terroir Parisien

A year and some months in Paris has taught me that there is no such thing as a typical French dish. Instead, what we foreigners have assumed to be bonafide French dishes: boeuf bourguignon, duck confit, crepes, etc., are in fact regional dishes, the first from Burgundy, the second from the South-west and the last from Brittany. Each region has its own rich culinary culture, with specialties that capture the geographic and historical specificities, and it’s rare to find, outside Paris, a restaurant of one region outside its home turf. The one region lacking in iconic foods is Ile de France, that is to say Paris and its surrounding suburbs, but I guess the paucity of regional cuisine is more than made up by the excessive number of eateries in the city, French or otherwise.

Terroir Parisien, a chic new restaurant headlined by Le Meurice’s star chef Yannick Alleno, aims to introduce the locavore concept to Paris by highlighting ingredients produced in the Ile de France region. One might have tasted chef Alleno’s Paris-inspired dishes at the Michelin 3-starred Le Meurice, but over here the prices are definitely more democratic, and the food, while not gasps inducing, was largely quite delicious.

Onion soup

For starters, one could choose an onion soup (10e) inspired by the workman’s stew at Les Halles, the broth unapologetically meaty and further accentuated with bone marrow, the broiled cheese crust typically found stuck on the soup bowl reworked into bite-sized bowls of chewy, oozy cheese balls.

Museau de chez Gilles Verot

Charcuterie is also on display, sourced from famous charcutier Gilles Verot, best known among Anglophones for supplying Daniel Boulud’s restaurants with terrines and sausages. P and YJ, our dining companion of the evening, both pronounced their museau (beef muzzle terrine) (7e) quite good with the tangy vinaigrette.

Alouettes sans tete à la Parisienne

The plats tended on hearty, simple and copious, though those ordering fish would do no wrong if YJ’s plate of firm, sweet skate meat (18e) was any indication. My order of alouettes sans tete (21e) did not feature headless larks but was instead rolled veal slices stuffed with meat and mushroom duxelle, the champignon de Paris appearing in a second form, sliced, buttered and soaked in deep veal fond.

Agneau Champvallon

P can never resist lamb, though Terroir Parisien’s version of agneau champvallon (19e), a casserole of lamb chops hidden under a cover of crisp potatos, was a tad too heavy even for him.

Paris Brest

Keeping in mind the difficulty of locating good choux pastry in Singapore, P and I ordered the Paris Brest (7e as with the other desserts). Unfortunately, this version was sub-par, the pastry slightly tough and tasting refrigerated, whereas the hazelnut and caramel cream was too sweet.

Flan Parisien

Good thing YJ convinced me to take a bite of her flan. Flans are ubiquitous in Parisian bakeries but I’ve hardly ordered them as they always looked pasty and gummy. This flan changed my opinion, the solid custard underneath a blacken film silky smooth and fragrant with egg and vanilla. What can I say? Not all flans are made equals, and this one put its brethren to shame.

The modern space with a large oblong bar as its centerpiece evokes a relaxed, smart-casual vibe. The bar also outfits Terroir Parisien to be one of the rare places in town where a solo diner can be seated at the centre of action. But it is equally appropriate for a convivial meal amongst friends. So it’s fitting to say goodbye to YJ, one of our few French friends made this year at a restaurant that celebrates all things tasteful and Parisian.

Terroir Parisien

Address: 24 Rue St Victor, 75005, Paris, France

Website: http://www.yannick-alleno.com/restaurant/paris-le-terroir-parisien/

Posted in 5th arrondisement, Cuisine, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Modern French, Paris | Tagged , | Leave a comment

La Femme Mange afternoon tea at Café Musée Jacquemart-André

Many things I will miss from our Paris days, of which tea-time is high on the list. It is an afternoon ritual I’ve picked up during this year of sabbatical, where idleness is a virtue, decadent french patisseries rites of passage, and meaningful discussions amongst friends or quiet self reflection rewards at the end of the afternoon.

A serene tea location in Paris

There are a thousand and one places to drink tea in Paris, the café in Musée Jacquemart-André merely one of many distinguished locales. But it is certainly one of the most picturesque. In tony 8eme, the tearoom (salon de thé) is set in the original dining room of Monsieur and Madame Jacquemart’s hotel particulier, now a private museum named after these two art collectors.

The famous Tiepolo ceiling

The entire compound exudes elegance and money-ed tastefulness, the red and chrome accented dining room notwithstanding. One talked-about piece of artwork in this bijoux of a museum is located in the salon de thé itself, the ceiling fresco painted by Tiepolo.

Millefeuille

It is under this ceiling depicting King Henri III’s visit to Venice en route to Paris where one can sit and sip, to eat in the gorgeous setting and the equally good-looking patisseries sourced from Stohrer and A La Petite Marquise. The selection while not wide covers most bases, so there are rich chocolate tarts, raspberry filled macarons and flaky millefeuilles on a single day to cater to every sweet craving. At less than the price of a museum ticket (10.20 euros), the tea formula buys one a dessert, a tea or coffee and the right to linger and daydream of the day one becomes master of a mansion.

Café Jacquemart-André: 158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris, France

Website: http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr/home

Posted in 8th arrondisement, Cafes, Cuisine, Desserts, Eat out, dine in, eating out, Location, Paris | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment